In the arctic desert, the winds are fierce and at the temperature range of -34°C to -27°C you won’t risk exposing your hands for long. Frostnip is manageable but frostbite could be deadly. What added to this everlasting experience, was the extreme pain I suffered in my hands while I was trying to get an ideal panoramic picture. Even the base layer gloves were not sufficient to protect them at bone-chilling -34°C.
Dog-sledding & Visit to the Ice-cave
I slept only for a few hours after the Karaoke night. During the early morning hours, Arctic Angie knocked at my door, as the tour guide came to pick me from the hotel.
Dog- sledding is one of the most popular activities to do in the Arctic wild. We went past several coal-mines on our way to the dog-sledding center. Upon arriving at the dog-sledding center – Spitsbergen Travel, our tour guide gave several handy instructions about the dogs and how to steer a sled. The staff was very well aware of the name, personality, and trait of every single dog (mostly Alaskan husky).
Our tour was to the East Coast, a mountainous region approximately 45 minutes from the center. The morning light illuminates the full glory of the impressive, mountainous landscape. Upon reaching the destination, we fed the dogs and made sure that they get enough rest.
After a short break, we went deep inside the glaciers, a few meters down to visit the ice-cave. It was milky white and noticeably warmer compared to the extreme climate outside. Finally, the group climbed out of the cave through the steep stairs carved in ice-blocks. The sun was beginning to set. We set up a camp to find warm refuge and treated ourselves with nutritive meals and hot drinks. With the setting sun on sight, we sled back home with the huskies. At the end of the tour, we went to the kennel to say goodbye to our four-legged friends and fed them frozen cubes of nutritive meat.
Northern Lights Tour
Even though, the dog-sledding tour charged me completely, a part of myself felt a bit hesitant in going out. Coming up next, the Northern Lights tour.
Northern Lights are also known as Polar Lights or Aurora Borealis. These are caused by the collision between the charged particles in the atmosphere, resulting in the emitting of light of several colors, mostly pale yellowish-green and pink. These lights are predominantly seen either around the Arctic or Antarctic Circle.
After the dinner, I hopped on the Polar Permaculture Tour bus for Northern Lights Hunting. The valley looked painted in black. I opted to sit inside the bus to avoid the freezing temperature and tried a local drink – a mix of warm water and berry, including some hot chocolate drink to keep the body warm. Meanwhile, the guide went out to find the traces of Northern Lights and returned after a few minutes of waiting, which already felt like forever.
It took me all the meticulous planning to draw the itinerary for Arctic Circle, making sure not to miss the Northern Lights. The forecast during the period of my stay showed only two days with the maximum chances of seeing the lights. I missed the first chance a day ago, so I was left with only once chance. The only night to witness the phenomenon. All the meticulous planning could be incomplete without a glimpse of aurora.
After a while, I stood before the most amazing and awe-inspiring phenomenon – the dance of Aurora Borealis. This was fortunate.
Something one would live to experience. The view of Aurora is an experience of a lifetime. These are the collective stories for your grandchildren. Praise to the Almighty for his splendid creations. The ultimate satisfaction. Happy tears. A prayer. A sudden burst of joy. The marvel of Aurora Borealis is indelible.
Snowmobile
After several back-to-back tours, I took a day-off from the expedition to visit the town on my own. The morning was lazy and the skies were moody. There are many remarkable places to see – the Ice Lake, Svalbard Museum, and the post-apocalyptic Svalbard Global Seed Vault.
The following day, I gathered myself for the adventurous tour of Snowmobile (also known as Motor sled or Snow scooter) through a traveling company – Hurtigruten Svalbard.
The tour covered a total of about 70 km (round-trip), to the destination – Elveneset, a phenomenal outlook point with views over the valleys and soaring mountains on all sides.
The bookings were done a few days ago in advance by Arctic Angie from Gjestehuset 102. After the theoretical class of driving and useful survival tips, I was all dressed up with the thermal gears provided by the tour company.
The 1,000 cc, 4-stroke, fuel-injected Yamaha/Polaris ride is indeed the best mode to venture in the Arctic Desert. Four other avid adventurers joined the group. With the couples riding with their partner, I choose to drive solely because someone who usually writes anecdotes decided to stay home. I was leading the group right behind our guide. Snowmobiles are comfortable and easy to ride; in a valley full of Arctic foxes and Polar Bears, we kept a steady pace.
Driving between the beautiful mountain range, we went past the herd of Reindeer that were seen scraping the snow with their hooves in search of lichen, herbs, and grass. The amazing fact is these Reindeer (both male and female) shed antlers at a different time of the year which regrows during the summer season.
The wind was wild and cold, picking the loose snow and creating a dense blizzard. As a result, we made a detour at Elveneset; hence, we missed the slightest chance of seeing the polar bear.
In the Arctic Circle, the chances of seeing Northern Lights, Polar Bear and Arctic Fox are relatively rare, provided you are choosing the ideal time for a visit.
The whiteout conditions were intense and the light began to fade blue and black. At the turning point, we took a short break with warm drinks before setting a course back to town. To traverse the dangerous and dark roads, we were instructed to follow our guide’s snowmobile. I spent the rest of the evening at Svalbard Pub.
Svalbard is wild, isolated, cut-off from civilization, and unlike any territory, I’ve ever seen before. Parts of my hands hurt from the extreme cold. Ice & snow are settled on eyebrows and eyelashes every time I go out.
The multiple layers of thermal clothes, the tiring expeditions, the hunting of Northern lights, the whiteout, the Karaoke night, and the hiking & camping tour – all sums up to a fabulous trip to the Arctic Circle.
Bon Voyage 